Your Search Results

      • Trusted Partner
        The Arts
        February 2018

        European fashion

        The creation of a global industry

        by Regina Lee Blaszczyk, Véronique Pouillard, Christopher Breward

        The period since 1945 has been a transformative era for the fashion industry. Over the course of seventy years, the fashion world has moved from celebrating the craftsmanship of haute couture to revelling in ever-changing fast-fashion. This volume examines the transition from the old system to the new in a series of case studies grouped around three major themes. Part I focuses on Paris as a creative hub, aiming to understand how the birthplace of haute couture adapted to late-twentieth-century developments. Part II considers the retailer's role in shaping taste, responding to consumer expectations and disseminating fashion merchandise. Part III looks to alternative visions of the European fashion system that have appeared in unexpected places. The volume is highly interdisciplinary, covering design history, cultural anthropology, ethnography, management studies and the cultural history of business.

      • Trusted Partner
        Humanities & Social Sciences
        July 2016

        Exoticisation undressed

        Ethnographic nostalgia and authenticity in Emberá clothes

        by Dimitrios Theodossopoulos, Alexander Smith

        Exoticisation Undressed is an innovative ethnography that makes visible the many layers through which our understandings of indigenous cultures are filtered and their inherent power to distort and refract understanding. The book focuses in detail on the clothing practices of the Emberá in Panama, an Amerindian ethnic group, who have gained national and international visibility through their engagement with indigenous tourism. The very act of gaining visibility while wearing indigenous attire has encouraged among some Emberá communities a closer identification with an indigenous identity and a more confident representational awareness. The clothes that the Emberá wear are not simply used to convey messages, but also become constitutive of their intended messages. By wearing indigenous-and-modern clothes, the Emberá-who are often seen by outsiders as shadows of a vanishing world-reclaim their place as citizens of a contemporary nation. Through reflexive engagement, Exoticisation Undressed exposes the workings of ethnographic nostalgia and the Western quest for a singular, primordial authenticity, unravelling instead new layers of complexity that reverse and subvert exoticisation. ;

      • Trusted Partner
        The Arts
        February 2018

        European fashion

        The creation of a global industry

        by Regina Lee Blaszczyk, Véronique Pouillard, Christopher Breward

        The period since 1945 has been a transformative era for the fashion industry. Over the course of seventy years, the fashion world has moved from celebrating the craftsmanship of haute couture to revelling in ever-changing fast-fashion. This volume examines the transition from the old system to the new in a series of case studies grouped around three major themes. Part I focuses on Paris as a creative hub, aiming to understand how the birthplace of haute couture adapted to late-twentieth-century developments. Part II considers the retailer's role in shaping taste, responding to consumer expectations and disseminating fashion merchandise. Part III looks to alternative visions of the European fashion system that have appeared in unexpected places. The volume is highly interdisciplinary, covering design history, cultural anthropology, ethnography, management studies and the cultural history of business.

      • Trusted Partner
        Humanities & Social Sciences
        July 2016

        Exoticisation undressed

        Ethnographic nostalgia and authenticity in Emberá clothes

        by Dimitrios Theodossopoulos, Alexander Smith

        1 Introduction: Nostalgia, invisible clothes, and hidden motivations 2 Static sketches in transformation 3 A story about Emberá clothes 4 Ghosts of Emberá past 5 Ghosts of Emberá present 6 Representational self-awareness 7 Shifting codes of dress 8 Three authentic Emberá discontinuities 9 Indigenous-and-modern Emberá clothes References

      • Trusted Partner
        Humanities & Social Sciences
        July 2016

        Exoticisation undressed

        Ethnographic nostalgia and authenticity in Emberá clothes

        by Dimitrios Theodossopoulos, Alexander Smith

        1 Introduction: Nostalgia, invisible clothes, and hidden motivations 2 Static sketches in transformation 3 A story about Emberá clothes 4 Ghosts of Emberá past 5 Ghosts of Emberá present 6 Representational self-awareness 7 Shifting codes of dress 8 Three authentic Emberá discontinuities 9 Indigenous-and-modern Emberá clothes References

      • Trusted Partner
        Humanities & Social Sciences
        September 2018

        Exoticisation undressed

        Ethnographic nostalgia and authenticity in Emberá clothes

        by Dimitrios Theodossopoulos, Alexander Smith

        Exoticisation Undressed is an innovative ethnography that makes visible the many layers through which our understandings of indigenous cultures are filtered and their inherent power to distort and refract understanding. The book focuses in detail on the clothing practices of the Emberá in Panama, an Amerindian ethnic group, who have gained national and international visibility through their engagement with indigenous tourism. The very act of gaining visibility while wearing indigenous attire has encouraged among some Emberá communities a closer identification with an indigenous identity and a more confident representational awareness. The clothes that the Emberá wear are not simply used to convey messages, but also become constitutive of their intended messages. By wearing indigenous-and-modern clothes, the Emberá-who are often seen by outsiders as shadows of a vanishing world-reclaim their place as citizens of a contemporary nation.

      • Trusted Partner
        Literature & Literary Studies
        June 2017

        Fashioning Gothic bodies

        by Catherine Spooner

        This innovative book is the first to make an explicit link between constructions of the body in Gothic literature and film and historically specific fashion discourse, from the 1790s to the 1990s.

      • Trusted Partner
        The Arts
        June 2020

        European fashion

        The creation of a global industry

        by Regina Lee Blaszczyk, Véronique Pouillard, Christopher Breward

        The period since 1945 has been a transformative era for the fashion industry. Over the course of seventy years, the fashion world has moved from celebrating the craftsmanship of haute couture to revelling in ever-changing fast-fashion. This volume examines the transition from the old system to the new in a series of case studies grouped around three major themes. Part I focuses on Paris as a creative hub, aiming to understand how the birthplace of haute couture adapted to late-twentieth-century developments. Part II considers the retailer's role in shaping taste, responding to consumer expectations and disseminating fashion merchandise. Part III looks to alternative visions of the European fashion system that have appeared in unexpected places. The volume is highly interdisciplinary, covering design history, cultural anthropology, ethnography, management studies and the cultural history of business.

      • Trusted Partner
        The Arts
        February 2024

        Threads of globalization

        Fashion, textiles, and gender in Asia in the long twentieth century

        by Melia Belli Bose

        Threads of globalization is an interdisciplinary volume that brings fashion-specific garments, motifs, materials, and methods of production into dialogue with gender and identity in various cultures throughout Asia during the long twentieth century. It examines how the shift from artisanal production to 'fast fashion' over the past 150 years has devalued women's textile labour and how skilled textile/ garment makers and the organizations that support them are preserving and reviving heritage traditions. It also offers examples of how socially engaged artists in Asia and the diaspora use their work to criticize labour and environmental abuses in the global fashion industry.

      • Trusted Partner
        The Arts
        February 2024

        Threads of globalization

        Fashion, textiles, and gender in Asia in the long twentieth century

        by Melia Belli Bose

        Threads of globalization is an interdisciplinary volume that brings fashion-specific garments, motifs, materials, and methods of production into dialogue with gender and identity in various cultures throughout Asia during the long twentieth century. It examines how the shift from artisanal production to 'fast fashion' over the past 150 years has devalued women's textile labour and how skilled textile/ garment makers and the organizations that support them are preserving and reviving heritage traditions. It also offers examples of how socially engaged artists in Asia and the diaspora use their work to criticize labour and environmental abuses in the global fashion industry.

      • Trusted Partner
        The Arts
        February 2024

        Threads of globalization

        Fashion, textiles, and gender in Asia in the long twentieth century

        by Melia Belli Bose

        Threads of globalization is an interdisciplinary volume that brings fashion-specific garments, motifs, materials, and methods of production into dialogue with gender and identity in various cultures throughout Asia during the long twentieth century. It examines how the shift from artisanal production to 'fast fashion' over the past 150 years has devalued women's textile labour and how skilled textile/ garment makers and the organizations that support them are preserving and reviving heritage traditions. It also offers examples of how socially engaged artists in Asia and the diaspora use their work to criticize labour and environmental abuses in the global fashion industry.

      • Trusted Partner
        The Arts
        December 2024

        Becoming couture

        The Italian fashion industry after the Second World War

        by Chiara Faggella

        Becoming couture is the first book to examine the history of the Italian fashion industry during the global transition brought about by the Second World War. It draws on a wide range of primary sources, some of them newly unearthed, to demonstrate that the Italian fashion industry in the Republican era continued to rely on business practices and professionals established during Fascism. Analysing changes in promotional discourses and press coverage, the book traces the shift that occurred when manufacturers were encouraged to expand their exports of accessories to include sportswear, knitwear and moda boutique. This ultimately led to the legitimisation of Italian dressmaking as creatively independent of French influences and therefore worthy of the label 'couture'.

      Subscribe to our

      newsletter